If you let years and years of not taking proper care of your teeth – the title of this article may well be your Christmas wish, and it could be the same for your Collie. 

In a recent study by the American Animal Hospital Association, it was found that over two thirds of pet owners do not provide the recommended dental care for their pets.  Back fifteen to twenty years ago, dental care was not a big part if any part of pet care.  Now it has been proven that dental disease affects many of the life sustaining organs in dogs (liver, heart, lung, etc.) as well as the mouth. If that isn’t sit up and take notice enough, the American Veterinary Dental Society reports that by age three 80 percent of dogs show signs of oral disease – oh that’s what that smell is about!.  

Further, the care of your pet’s mouth is not just in the hands of your vet – you have big part in maintaining a healthy mouth in your dog.  Several home care duties include, brushing your dog’s teeth at least two /three times weekly.  Every day is the optimum.  Collies have a tendency to have bad teeth so every day should be the rule.  There are a number of tooth brushes and pastes that can be purchased – find one that works best for you and your dog – and be sure to ask your vet what he/she recommends.  Start slow if you have an older dog – and reward him for however small an area you are able to do – keep working up till you can do his whole mouth.  You should start right away with a pup so that toothbrusing becomes part of a normal routine – make it fun.  Diet is key –- soft canned, sticky foods should be avoided.  This food tends to stay between the teeth helping to build up bad bacteria.  There is evidence that even daily toothbrushing alone will not maintain healthy gums and teeth- but the addition of chewing toys such as kongs and hard toys are helpful in exercising teeth and gums.  As are real shin bones that don’t splinter and raw chicken wings are also a very good treat which also helps keep teeth and gums clean. Again, there are many good products and toys which dogs love and are healthy for canine mouths. 

 Regular dental check-ups with your vet once a year are also very important. Like human dentists, your vet can keep track of your dog’s dental development.  Different ages bring about different aspects to look at – in the very young dog – how teeth are growing, missing or extra teeth.  As your dog grows the vet can look for anomalies, development of plaque and tartar, periodontal disease and oral tumors.  Dog’s teeth seldom get cavities – the problems are generally with gum disease growing into dangerous and very painful disease such as Pyorrhea which is inflammation of the gums and tooth sockets often leading to loose teeth, accompanying pus and infections that spread throughout the body.  Think how good that tastes and feels!

Most vets will perform yearly teeth cleanings or dentals on dogs.  The dog is put under a general anesthesia and the teeth are professionally cleaned.  If you are concerned about your pet going under anesthesia – speak with your vet.  There are a number of anesthesias available. 

This may be a good time to start– by having your dog’s oral health assessed, making a plan with your vet and starting a good oral health regime.  If your dog has good oral health – February is dental care month for pets and many vets offer deals on dentals.

Good oral hygiene at home and regular visits to the vet for oral check ups can absolutely attribute to a healthier and longer life and your dog not singing the title song!

Happy Holidays to you all.

It is mostly unknown what triggers many dogs to be fearful of thunder and loud noises (such as gun shots, fireworks, etc.).  This is a common problem and sometimes they are just fearful of one thing and not another or they can fear all loud noises. 

An interesting fact is that a recent study found that there are certain breeds that have an above average risk of developing noise fears and phobias and the working and sporting breeds including Collies are among this group.  The study was small and more research needs to be done, obviously, but those of us who own Collies, I would bet at one time or another have come across this problem.

Dogs may react in different ways to their fear of thunder – including hiding, urinating, chewing, trembling, trying to escape, looking for the owner and drooling.  This list is not exclusive.   If left untreated, in time the behaviors will become worse.  The problem will most always never completely resolve, but the dog’s behavior can be modified so that he remains safe and can cope better.  If the dog shows signs of significant phobia such as trying to jump out of a window, becoming extremely agitated, a vet should be consulted to discuss medications that can be given to calm the animal down.  Sometimes these can be given seasonally – such as during the summer season or prior to an event that will precipitate the behavior – thunder storms rolling in, Fourth of July fire works.  There are also homeopathic treatments that can help.

Owners’ attitude and behavior can assist in determining the severity of the fear.  An example is if the owner is fearful and nervous during storms the dog picks this up. Additionally, if the dog is comforted and coddled, this is interpreted as there IS something to be really afraid of and the behavior is being reinforced.  (There are two theories on this – this one and one that encourages comfort.  I believe this approach to be best – I have seen it work.  We comfort and praise our dogs for doing the right things – therefore if we coddle or offer comfort we are essentially saying, “Good job, Tor, wiz on the couch.”!   

Ways to help include, finding a safe, small place for your dog like his crate, bathroom, nook that he likes to go in.  If he likes and uses a crate – that is a perfect place.  Encourage him to the crate before the noise really gets going when he first shows signs of fear – a blanket over the crate might help. A TV or radio near-by – to block out the noise of the storm is also helpful - keep the crate door open so he isn’t confined. In finding and creating these safe places, some planning should go into it.  Feed you dog in this place.  Put favorite toys there so he know it is a good placed to be. Show him to the bathroom or small room.  Pulling shades to darken the area is helpful.  Be upbeat and calm.  I don’t like hard thunder storms and tend to be really nervous.  It is a good lesson in discipline to be cheerful for your dogs!  Unless of course the storm is so bad and lightening strikes the ridge across the road and the light is blinding and the hiss/snap and roar are so deafening the house shakes and you scream almost as loudly – plan ahead!

Blocking the level of noise with other distractions – run the air conditioner, play the radio, put your pet in a room with no windows if that is possible or in the basement.

Other kinds of distraction may work better if the dog needs to move and be active – encourage an activity at the beginning of the storm or noise event that can work to be distracting, such as play with a favorite toy – play fetch, practice some obedience commands and give praise for the appropriate behavior.  As the storm or noise heightens – you probably will not be able to continue the distraction, but each time work to using it longer and eventually the fearful behavior may not be as bad. 

Unfortunately, there are some dogs that really need the help of a vet and a good plan to help control these fears.  The quicker they are dealt with the better for your dog and you. 

But using some of the above techniques can be helpful to dogs that don’t have severe reactions and can prevent the fear from becoming severe.

Well, I would say you have your new rescue dog safely at home after Christmas (WAY AFTER!! ;)) and you are thinking about maybe crate training. He still chews things once in awhile that he shouldn’t and occasionally forgets he is in the house.  You often leave for a few hours and need to consider something better than you are currently doing.  It is perfectly ok to crate train an older dog – as a matter of fact it might be a great thing for both of you.  If you travel and your dog ever has to be placed in a crate it won’t be as scary and if the vet ever needs to kennel your dog, crate training can help.   The crate is NOT or NEVER should be used as a punishment. It is a safe, comfortable place for the dog to be.  The crate should never be used as a place to get the dog “out of your way” whether for short or long times – if you need to get the dog out of your way why have him?  The crate is a safe place for your dog to be while you are away or at night so that when you come home or get up your house is fine and your dog is happily waiting for you.  You need a crate, your dog, patience and a sense of humor.

To start working with a crate you must find one that is big enough for your dog to be comfortable but not have a lot of room.  Turn around, stand up room is good! Next place the crate where you want it to be – in a room where there is activity -   living room, playroom, etc.  The crate should be a little off from main activities.  The bedroom is ok but you can move the crate there when your dog is happy to be in it. Furnish the crate with the best ever blanket – one you know he will love to nest in - and a favorite toy.  Fix the door so it will stay open so it doesn’t scare the dog if he goes in.  Leave the crate there – when your dog comes over to check it out - be animated about it show him the toy and encourage his investigation.  If he goes away just go away too!  In a day or two you can throw treats in the crate and have him get them – leave the door open and praise him. Make it a game.  When he gets comfortable doing this (it may take a day, a few days or longer) then you can move on to the next step. 

The next step is feeding him in the crate.  Place his food as far back as you can and encourage him to go in.  Many dogs will be happy to eat and will go in – others need more time – but the idea is to be able to have him eat in the crate even if it is right at the edge of the door – What good boy!  Keep slowly working the food to the back of the crate – leave the door open and be calm and patient with this. Use the same words to encourage him to go in – like Kennel up, Get in your crate – I tell my dogs, “Go to your room”. 

After your dog is comfortable eating in the crate – shut the door while he eats.  Do not say or do anything – when he is finished let him out.  Gradually lengthen the time from his finishing his meal to letting him out of the crate.  If he whines or barks do not let him out!  This is telling him that if he whines and fusses you will let him out and that isn’t the deal. Find a time when he is quiet – even if it is for a few seconds and let him out then.  Go do something fun.  Keep increasing this time until he is able to stay for about ten minutes quietly with you around – then leave the room for about ten minutes and come back and leave him in for about five more.  Gradually increase the time.  If you have a bad day or get stuck on something – just stay at that point, don’t punish or a make big deal out of it! 

After he is used to being alone in the crate with you out of the room – and you will know when you can do this – leave the house for about a half an hour.  When you come back immediately let him out, go out and have fun.  Very soon you will be able to leave him for a time without worrying.  Water in a hanging bowl is a must if you are going to be gone long and a toy he can’t get hurt on as well.  Dogs shouldn’t be left in crates for any more than 8-9 hours.  That is long enough.  Make arrangements for a neighbor or friend to come by and give your dog break if the time is going to be much longer than that. 

You may find that after awhile your dog will use the crate himself when he wants to be alone or just to sleep or chew a toy in.  This shows that he feels happy and safe there and it has become his den and that you have done a great job in helping him feel that way.

Happy Spring or Happy Mud!